On the American day of thanks, we Canadians don't pay much attention to the sentiment of the holiday. That was sooo a month ago! We're thankful for the football and the chance to legitimately drink beer at noon, but we've had our toasts and our turkey.
I, however, have great reason to be thankful. I'm the proud Godmother of a beautiful baby boy! The call came late last night from Vancouver (too far from my home in Ottawa, if you ask me) and all is well with Mom and baby.
To celebrate the new little bundle of joy, I'm indulging in a bottle sent to me by the baby's father. The advantage to having extended family on the west coast is that they send me gems not available in Ontario.
This particular wine is a favourite of my Godson's Dad. A peculiar Italian, much like him! It's the Caldora Colle dei Venti Pecorino. To my surprise, Pecorino is actually the grape variety, named as such because grape clusters resemble the head of a sheep.
Upon opening the bottle, I was struck with the aroma of marzipan. Wondering if this was status quo, I poured a taste and was delighted by the deep golden colour and viscous appearance of the wine. Taking a sniff, I was bedazzled by ripe honeydew melon, lively citrus and a curious nuttiness (again, much like him!). This was like nothing I've ever smelled before. As with all good wine, the flavour profile revealed parallel perfection. The mouthfeel was round and ripe and the finish was long and almondy.
Though it would pair delectably with sole almondine, I'm slumming it with crunchy Cheetos. Who makes sole almondine while watching football? :o)
Welcome to the world, little one! And cheers to you all!
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Friday, November 16, 2007
A Nose That Knows
As a sommelier/bar manager in very busy restaurant, my servers frequently come to me with an open bottle of wine that their table has sent back because the wine is "off".
For curiosity's sake and to keep my nose trained to the elements of tainted wine, I'll frequently pour a bit of the wine in question to examine it. My conclusion? The majority of these wines are perfectly fine.
Since we're certainly not in the business of embarassing guests out or making them suffer through a bottle of wine they won't enjoy, we are more than happy to exchange it for another bottle, no questions asked. The LCBO gives us full credit for wines that are suspected to be tainted and will then test each bottle to find its fault. We wouldn't be in business long if we said, "The wine's fine. You're paying for it, you might as well drink it." That really doesn't put the "hospitable" in hospitality.
In most cases, what the guest may find offensive are the inherent aromas/flavours in the wine they've first tried; the barnyard aromas of Pinot Noir, the leathery, dusty tones of some Italians (the wines, not the people!), the astringency of young Bordeaux.
I suggest to my servers that they next offer a wine free of whatever character may have been disliked in the first place and bingo! The guest is pleased, we're pleased to have pleased the guest and everyone goes home pleased.
This is most often the case.
Recently though, a server brought an open bottle of wine back to the bar, rolled his eyes at me as he said, "Apparently this wine is bad." (Some servers have caught on to the phenomena I mentioned earlier and are obliging with their guests, but skeptical all the same.) I dutifully poured a bit into a glass, gave it a sniff and phew! THE WINE WAS ACTUALLY TAINTED!
It was a common case of cork taint, a fungus that can affect corks and results in wine that smells of wet dog, damp newspaper, mothballs, etc. Surprisingly though, about 12% of wines suffer cork taint. That's more than 1 in 10. That means out of every 10 bottles of wine you've drunk, 1 of them has been off. Did you notice? Most people don't. Their noses simply aren't trained to it. They deem the wine terrible and never buy it again.
This gentleman, though, had found cork taint! I was overjoyed. I rushed over to the table at once to apologize for the off bottle and to meet the man with the knowing nose! He was a bit surprised, but quite flattered when I congratulated his olfactory prowess...men like that...We had a lovely conversation and he and his guest enjoyed their new bottle of wine and the rest of their evening.
So, how can you avoid a tainted wine or know the difference between a wine that is off and a wine you simply don't like? There are plenty of faults and plenty of warning signs, but here's the key:
When testing out a newly opened bottle of wine, avoid the urge to first swirl it in the glass. Swirling the wine releases its primary aromas (the fruity stuff) by letting a thin film of wine coat the inside of the glass and allowing the alcohol to evaporate quickly, leaving the aromas behind. This action masks any fault previously apparent. So, pour, sniff and if you don't find anything that smells like gym socks or the first day you open up the cottage after a long winter, swirl away! And if you do find something a little too funky for your liking, return it and start again.
A foolproof way to avoid cork taint altogether is to buy wines with screwtops, or Stelvin closures as their known in the industy. They'll be a topic of a blog entry to come...stay tuned!
Cheers!
For curiosity's sake and to keep my nose trained to the elements of tainted wine, I'll frequently pour a bit of the wine in question to examine it. My conclusion? The majority of these wines are perfectly fine.
Since we're certainly not in the business of embarassing guests out or making them suffer through a bottle of wine they won't enjoy, we are more than happy to exchange it for another bottle, no questions asked. The LCBO gives us full credit for wines that are suspected to be tainted and will then test each bottle to find its fault. We wouldn't be in business long if we said, "The wine's fine. You're paying for it, you might as well drink it." That really doesn't put the "hospitable" in hospitality.
In most cases, what the guest may find offensive are the inherent aromas/flavours in the wine they've first tried; the barnyard aromas of Pinot Noir, the leathery, dusty tones of some Italians (the wines, not the people!), the astringency of young Bordeaux.
I suggest to my servers that they next offer a wine free of whatever character may have been disliked in the first place and bingo! The guest is pleased, we're pleased to have pleased the guest and everyone goes home pleased.
This is most often the case.
Recently though, a server brought an open bottle of wine back to the bar, rolled his eyes at me as he said, "Apparently this wine is bad." (Some servers have caught on to the phenomena I mentioned earlier and are obliging with their guests, but skeptical all the same.) I dutifully poured a bit into a glass, gave it a sniff and phew! THE WINE WAS ACTUALLY TAINTED!
It was a common case of cork taint, a fungus that can affect corks and results in wine that smells of wet dog, damp newspaper, mothballs, etc. Surprisingly though, about 12% of wines suffer cork taint. That's more than 1 in 10. That means out of every 10 bottles of wine you've drunk, 1 of them has been off. Did you notice? Most people don't. Their noses simply aren't trained to it. They deem the wine terrible and never buy it again.
This gentleman, though, had found cork taint! I was overjoyed. I rushed over to the table at once to apologize for the off bottle and to meet the man with the knowing nose! He was a bit surprised, but quite flattered when I congratulated his olfactory prowess...men like that...We had a lovely conversation and he and his guest enjoyed their new bottle of wine and the rest of their evening.
So, how can you avoid a tainted wine or know the difference between a wine that is off and a wine you simply don't like? There are plenty of faults and plenty of warning signs, but here's the key:
When testing out a newly opened bottle of wine, avoid the urge to first swirl it in the glass. Swirling the wine releases its primary aromas (the fruity stuff) by letting a thin film of wine coat the inside of the glass and allowing the alcohol to evaporate quickly, leaving the aromas behind. This action masks any fault previously apparent. So, pour, sniff and if you don't find anything that smells like gym socks or the first day you open up the cottage after a long winter, swirl away! And if you do find something a little too funky for your liking, return it and start again.
A foolproof way to avoid cork taint altogether is to buy wines with screwtops, or Stelvin closures as their known in the industy. They'll be a topic of a blog entry to come...stay tuned!
Cheers!
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
Where's My Cape?
Recently a friend of mine frantically facebooked (isn't it funny that that's become a verb?) me that he was going to an engagement party for two of his friends and that at the last minute they sprung a little surprise on him...He, a beverage sales rep and the closest thing they had to a connoisseur, was to pair wine with the menu they'd created and lead the guests through a tasting of his choices. This would be all fine and well, except that he doesn't know a thing about wine!(Cue the horror movie screechy music.) To make matters worse, the menu was entirely vegetarian...the sommelier's gastronomic nemesis! (Cue music scarier than horror movie stuff...Cue the Baroque!) And there's a budget: $400 for 15 guests.
Now, for those of you out there, like my friend, who think Barbaresco is an Italian wrestler, consider this. Among the repertoire of experts you have in your life - a plummer, an accountant, a bikini waxer, whatever - consider adding a sommelier. You'll find us at fine restaurants, at wine related events, all over the internet and heck, maybe even in the liquor store. Make friends with one. Bring over a tuna casserole, send a Christmas card, stay in touch. You never know when you might need one to bail you out of an uncomfortable social situation...
"My daughter's getting married and wants to serve turkey and thai food at the reception! What wine do I serve???" Easy! Off-dry Riesling.
"My wife's chirpin' me that I never do anything nice for her." A common problem in relationships. Buy her an $8 bottle of Tarapaca Sauvignon Blanc, run her a bath, stick the wine in a chiller beside the tub and presto! Your Monday nights are all about football. What a deal!
So how, do you ask, did I save the day for my friend? Have a look:
Tuna Tartar on Wonton Crisps with chili mayo paired with Val d'Oca Prosecco di Valdobiadenne. An inexpensive Italian dry sparkling wine to lighten up the tuna and keep the chili dancing on the tongue.
Herbed Potato Latkes with Sour Cream and Chives paired with Oyster Bay Chardonnay. A buttery Chard with crisp green notes to cleanse the palate from the sour cream and compliment the zing of the chives.
Phyllo & Camembert Pouch with Raspberry Coulis paired with Lindeman's Bin 99 Pinot Noir. A light-bodied red with soft berry and vanilla tones and a hint of earthiness, not to out-do the delicacy of the pastry while emphasizing the flavour of the cheese.
Oriental Eggplant Roulade with Goat Cheese & Sundried Tomato Stuffing paired with Angel's Gate Cabernet Franc. A wine with enough acidity and oomph to stand up to the vegetal notes of the eggplant and sundried tomato without blowing the goat cheese out of the water.
Cherry Tomato Cups with minted Sweet Pea Dressing paired with Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc. A vivacious Kiwi wine with tropical notes, racy acidity and a little something green, not compete with the acidity of the tomatoes but encourage the mint and sweet pea flavours.
Spring Rolls with Plum Sauce paired with Cave Spring Off-Dry Riesling. A sweet and sour wine of sorts, for a sweet and sour dish.
Mixed Olive Salad on Garlic Crostini paired with Santa Cristina Sangiovese. Olives and garlic are a sommelier's nightmare! When in doubt, pair them with wine from home, their home that is. This medium-bodied, cherry and smoke Italian is sure to do the trick.
Fresh Fig and Goat Cheese with a Red Wine Reduction paired with Fonseca Bin 27 Ruby Reserve Port. A medium-bodied, soft and juicy port, perfectly envelops the fig and goat cheese while mimicking the notes of the reduction.
Voila! My friend was a hit at the party...though he doesn't remember anything after the 3rd course! My work here is done!
Count yourselves among the lucky ones. You have a friendly neighbourhood sommelier right here at your fingertips. Email me anytime with your questions! vanessa@grapepotential.com
Now, for those of you out there, like my friend, who think Barbaresco is an Italian wrestler, consider this. Among the repertoire of experts you have in your life - a plummer, an accountant, a bikini waxer, whatever - consider adding a sommelier. You'll find us at fine restaurants, at wine related events, all over the internet and heck, maybe even in the liquor store. Make friends with one. Bring over a tuna casserole, send a Christmas card, stay in touch. You never know when you might need one to bail you out of an uncomfortable social situation...
"My daughter's getting married and wants to serve turkey and thai food at the reception! What wine do I serve???" Easy! Off-dry Riesling.
"My wife's chirpin' me that I never do anything nice for her." A common problem in relationships. Buy her an $8 bottle of Tarapaca Sauvignon Blanc, run her a bath, stick the wine in a chiller beside the tub and presto! Your Monday nights are all about football. What a deal!
So how, do you ask, did I save the day for my friend? Have a look:
Tuna Tartar on Wonton Crisps with chili mayo paired with Val d'Oca Prosecco di Valdobiadenne. An inexpensive Italian dry sparkling wine to lighten up the tuna and keep the chili dancing on the tongue.
Herbed Potato Latkes with Sour Cream and Chives paired with Oyster Bay Chardonnay. A buttery Chard with crisp green notes to cleanse the palate from the sour cream and compliment the zing of the chives.
Phyllo & Camembert Pouch with Raspberry Coulis paired with Lindeman's Bin 99 Pinot Noir. A light-bodied red with soft berry and vanilla tones and a hint of earthiness, not to out-do the delicacy of the pastry while emphasizing the flavour of the cheese.
Oriental Eggplant Roulade with Goat Cheese & Sundried Tomato Stuffing paired with Angel's Gate Cabernet Franc. A wine with enough acidity and oomph to stand up to the vegetal notes of the eggplant and sundried tomato without blowing the goat cheese out of the water.
Cherry Tomato Cups with minted Sweet Pea Dressing paired with Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc. A vivacious Kiwi wine with tropical notes, racy acidity and a little something green, not compete with the acidity of the tomatoes but encourage the mint and sweet pea flavours.
Spring Rolls with Plum Sauce paired with Cave Spring Off-Dry Riesling. A sweet and sour wine of sorts, for a sweet and sour dish.
Mixed Olive Salad on Garlic Crostini paired with Santa Cristina Sangiovese. Olives and garlic are a sommelier's nightmare! When in doubt, pair them with wine from home, their home that is. This medium-bodied, cherry and smoke Italian is sure to do the trick.
Fresh Fig and Goat Cheese with a Red Wine Reduction paired with Fonseca Bin 27 Ruby Reserve Port. A medium-bodied, soft and juicy port, perfectly envelops the fig and goat cheese while mimicking the notes of the reduction.
Voila! My friend was a hit at the party...though he doesn't remember anything after the 3rd course! My work here is done!
Count yourselves among the lucky ones. You have a friendly neighbourhood sommelier right here at your fingertips. Email me anytime with your questions! vanessa@grapepotential.com
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